Here is a how-to guide on troubleshooting common car problems
- Here is a comprehensive list of four common car problems that may plague your car and the steps to work your way out of them:
A big part of the ownership experience when it comes to cars is the unending list of problems that can develop over time and show up absolutely out of nowhere. While most issues that one may run into require short, simple solutions, sometimes the step of diagnosing them in the first place can be a tall order. On one hand, it may be as simple as shining a flashlight into the engine bay and tightening up loose components. On the other, the solution may not even be identifiable to the untrained eye.
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Running into such problems while you are out on a regular Sunday drive can be inconvenient at its best, but fatal at its worst. Understanding your car and the common ways it can spring up new problems can come in handy in the most unexpected situations. To that end, we have put together a list of four common problems that owners often encounter with their cars and how to troubleshoot your way out of it:
If you suddenly find your car’s engine rattling in a way that might leave a hole in your wallet, its best to bring the car to a halt by the side of the road and inspect the engine bay. When it comes to rattling sounds, there is a wide range of possible problems that may have plagued your car, ranging from loose components to oil pressure.
It is necessary for the oil level to be within the recommended range, for too less would cause metal components to come into contact with each other. Other times, if the rattling is followed by a drop in power level or engine misfires, it could indicate an issue with the timing belt. Loose exhaust components can also cause rattling within the engine bay.
The alternator bridges the battery to the engine of the car. It uses rotational energy from the engine to keep the battery charged, which in turn is responsible for starting the engine in the first place. Issues with this system can cause a variety of symptoms, such as a dead battery, malfunctioning electronics, and strange smells. To test whether the problem lies with the battery or the alternator, jump start the car to see how it behaves. If the engine dies soon after taking off the jumper cables, it is a sign of a faulty alternator that cannot efficiently supply the battery.
An unpleasant smell of burning rubber or wires can indicate that parts of the alternator are wearing out or have done so. This can occur either due to the belt drive being under non-stop stress or an overworked alternator that is trying to force in too much electricity through the wiring.
If nothing, one must always be able to rely on their car’s brakes. As such, issues with the braking system demand the most immediate attention. If your brakes feel strangely softer than usual and the pedal seems to travel far lower than it normally would, it could indicate a number of issues such as air pockets within the brake lines, leaking disc calipers, or leaking wheel cylinders.
Air in the brake lines can interrupt the flow of brake fluid, causing the pedal to feel soft. By flushing the fluid, also known as bleeding the brakes, we can push the air out of the brake lines. If the disc calipers get corroded, they can cause the piston seal to leak brake fluid, causing the pedal to sink. If the brakes pull to one side, it may indicate a drop in fluid pressure at one of the calipers.
Oftentimes, fixing one problem leads to another in a chain reaction. Modern cars run on complex computers that rely on a consistent supply of power in order to perform and preserve settings. These settings can control functions such as engine idle settings, fuel injection, and ignition timing, to name a few. Disconnecting the battery to replace it cuts the power flow to the computer, causing it to lose VRAM settings and revert to default ones. While default settings are completely fine for a new car, the computers alter them over time to compensate for an ageing power unit. When your car reverts to these default settings, it may no longer be able to idle the right way, causing itself to stall.
In order to get the car to relearn its settings, fire it up on level ground and let it idle while ensuring all unnecessary electronics are off. If it doesn’t idle smoothly, apply pressure on the throttle gently to give it some room. If the car idles on its own, start up the AC to see if the computer is compensating for the additional load that is required.
If the car does not idle by itself properly after warming up, take it for a small drive while intermittently braking and applying throttle to keep it idling. In extreme cases, a full service may be required to clean up the idle air control valve or the throttle body due to excess carbon build up.
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